Buying a Used iPhone in 2026: The 15-Point Checklist Before You Pay
Buying a used iPhone? Follow this 15-point checklist: IMEI, iCloud/Find My, blacklist, carrier lock, battery, parts history and more — before you pay.
Updated · 5 min read
In this article
A used iPhone can be a brilliant deal — or a locked, blacklisted, battery-tired disappointment. The difference is almost never visible in the listing photos. It shows up in ten minutes of careful checking, most of which you can do standing next to the seller.
This checklist is the exact routine experienced dealers use. Work through it in order: the first eight points can each end the deal on their own, so there’s no point testing the speakers on a phone that’s still locked to someone else’s Apple ID.
Before you meet: points 1–3
1. Ask for the IMEI or serial number in advance
An honest seller will share it. Run it through a free check before you travel: the All-in-one Basic Info report confirms the exact model, color, storage and Find My status. If the listing says “iPhone 15 Pro 256 GB” and the report says iPhone 14, you’ve saved yourself a trip.
2. Check the blacklist
A GSMA blacklist check tells you whether the IMEI has been reported lost or stolen. For iPhones bought in or from the US, add the USA blacklist / barred check, which also catches phones barred for unpaid bills.
3. Know the market price
Compare at least five listings for the same model, storage and condition. A price far below the rest is a warning, not a bargain. Locked, financed and stolen phones are always priced to sell fast.
The five deal-breakers: points 4–8
4. Match the IMEI three ways
Dial *#06#, then open Settings › General › About and compare the IMEI. On models with a SIM tray, the IMEI is also printed on the tray. All three must match the number you checked earlier. A mismatch means the phone, the board or the box isn’t what you were told.
5. Confirm Find My is off
Open Settings, tap the name at the top, then Find My › Find My iPhone. It must be Off. If it’s on, ask the seller to sign out completely (Settings › [their name] › Sign Out) and enter their Apple ID password in front of you. If they “can’t remember the password”, the deal is over. Learn why in our Activation Lock guide.
6. Erase it while you watch
Ask the seller to go to Settings › General › Transfer or Reset iPhone › Erase All Content and Settings. After the restart you should see the “Hello” setup screen. If you see “iPhone Locked to Owner”, Activation Lock is still on — don’t pay.
7. Check for device management (MDM)
Look in Settings › General › VPN & Device Management. On a personal phone there should be no management profile. Company-owned iPhones enrolled in Apple Business Manager can show a “Remote Management” screen during setup even after an erase, and only the organization can release them.
8. Check the carrier lock
Settings › General › About › Carrier Lock should read No SIM restrictions. Better still, put your own SIM in and make a call. If the phone is locked, a carrier + SIM-lock check tells you which network it belongs to, which matters for whether it can be legitimately unlocked later.
Is it genuine and untouched? Points 9–11
9. Read the Parts and Service History
On iPhone XR, XS and later, go to Settings › General › About and look for Parts and Service History. It lists replaced parts such as the battery, display and camera, marked as Genuine Apple Part or Unknown Part. If the section doesn’t appear, the phone has usually had no part replacements recorded. Our battery and parts history guide explains every message.
10. Check the model number prefix
In Settings › General › About, tap Model Number until it shows a code like MTUW3LL/A. The first letter matters: M is a retail unit, F is refurbished, N is a replacement unit issued by Apple, P is a personalized (engraved) order. A phone sold as “brand new” with an F or N prefix isn’t. More detail in how to spot a fake or refurbished iPhone.
11. Check warranty and purchase date
Run the serial through Apple’s official checkcoverage.apple.com page or our iPhone warranty check. Remaining AppleCare or limited warranty is a real selling point — and a “boxed, never used” phone whose warranty started two years ago is not new.
Hardware test: points 12–15
12. Battery health
Settings › Battery › Battery Health & Charging shows Maximum Capacity. Apple designs iPhone 14 and earlier batteries to keep about 80% capacity at 500 full cycles, and iPhone 15 and later at about 1,000 cycles. Below 80% you’ll see a service recommendation — budget for a replacement and negotiate the price down.
13. Screen, Face ID and cameras
- Open a white page at full brightness and look for yellow tint, dead pixels, pressure marks or burn-in (ghost images on OLED models).
- Set up Face ID (or Touch ID) as a test, then delete it. If setup fails, the TrueDepth module may be damaged or swapped.
- Take photos with every lens, including zoom and front camera, and record a short video to test stabilization and the microphones.
- Check that True Tone is available in Settings › Display & Brightness — it often disappears after a non-genuine screen replacement.
14. Speakers, buttons, charging and connectivity
Play music through both speakers, call yourself, press every button, flip the Action button or mute switch, and plug in a charger. Turn on Wi-Fi and Bluetooth and confirm both find networks. Insert your SIM (or ask about eSIM transfer) and check you get signal and mobile data.
15. Body and water exposure
Check the frame for dents and bends, look for misaligned screen edges (a sign of opening) and mismatched screws on older Lightning models. On iPhones with a SIM tray, a red Liquid Contact Indicator inside the slot means water exposure.
Run the free check first
Your first All-in-one check is free and takes seconds. Enter the IMEI or serial before you meet the seller:
Want a specific report — Find My status, blacklist, carrier or warranty? Pick it here:
How to pay safely
Only pay after every check above passes, the phone is erased and you’ve seen the setup screen. Use a traceable method where possible, get a written receipt with the IMEI on it, and keep the chat history. If anything feels rushed, walk away — there will always be another iPhone. For a wider safety plan, read our marketplace buying checklist.
Want the same routine for any brand? Use our check a phone before buying page.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most important thing to check on a used iPhone?
That Find My (Activation Lock) is off and the seller is fully signed out of their Apple ID. A locked iPhone cannot be activated by anyone else, so check this before anything else.
How do I know if a used iPhone is stolen?
Run a GSMA blacklist check on the IMEI, confirm Find My is off, and make sure the IMEI in Settings matches *#06#. A seller who won’t sign out in front of you is a major red flag.
What battery health is acceptable on a used iPhone?
Above 85% is good, 80–85% is fair. Below 80% Apple recommends service, so factor the cost of a new battery into the price.
How can I tell if a used iPhone is unlocked?
Go to Settings › General › About › Carrier Lock. It should say “No SIM restrictions”. Testing your own SIM or running a carrier and SIM-lock check confirms it.
Can I check a used iPhone for free?
Yes. Your first All-in-one check on iSerial is free and shows the model, storage, color and Find My status from the IMEI or serial number.